Sunday, March 13, 2011

Pizzeria Locale: So much hype, so little crust

There's been a lot of excitement about the opening of Pizzeria Locale's modest space east of Boulder's Pearl Street Mall.  That's mostly because it shares owners with the fancy Frasca Food and Wine, just down the street, and because of their famously painstaking effort to duplicate a true Neapolitan pizza (see Denver Post article for more details). 

My husband, my mother and myself stopped in for lunch this past Saturday.  At 12:15, they were busy enough that there were no tables available, but we were able to grab seats at the pizza bar.  Yes, the pizza bar - think a sushi bar but with pizza, centered around their fancy wood-fired oven.

The owners certainly channeled a southern European feel in their restaurant, but that may just be because everything is so small.  The space itself is small, the tables are small, the water glasses are small (with no ice, of course). 

Service was very good.  The waiter suggested that pies were "personal" sized, but we opted to split two - the Diavola and the Quattro Formaggi - between the three of us. 

The Diavola came with marina sauce, a very light spread of mozzarella cheese, basil leaves, and a spicy salami.  The Quattro Formaggi was, as expected, much heavier on the cheese, containing mozzarella, Parmesan, ovin sardo, and fontina.  While not health food, this pizza really isn't the calorie bomb most of us are used to.  If you're expecting something like an Uno Chicago Deep Dish Pizza to come out of the oven, you may not recognize what's on your plate.

I'm no Neapolitan pizza connoisseur, but the authenticity of their pies seems legit.  The crust is light, delicate and chewy.  In fact, it becomes so flimsy in the center that you probably want to eat your slice with a fork and knife.  Cheeses, sauces, and toppings were very flavorful and fresh, despite their long trek from Italy to our table. Splitting the two pizzas between the three of us was the perfect amount of food.

We finished off dinner with a biscotti, which was pleasantly soft and not too sweet. 

Overall, this pizza was decent but not too remarkable. However, for the totally reasonable prices - $9-$18 per pizza - it's certainly worth a visit.

Casual Dining
(7 of 10)

Good service, high quality ingredients

Good luck getting a table, but there are a dozen more restaurants nearby with a similar concept and menu


Pizzeria Locale on Urbanspoon


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